Well, I have the schematic and have built a BOM from it, but it turns out that a few of the parts that were on the board when I pulled out don't match the schematic. Looking at the board where the Mylar/Electrolytic difference is, the silkscreen seems to indicate electrolytic. I am 100% sure that the schematic/diagram matches the board that I have. :) On 8/19/19 12:27 PM, Sentrytv wrote:
Personally I would replace all the components if necessary with the original component because it was working at one time. if you cannot find the proper schematic you may have to reverse engineer it. I think most of us have done that at one point or another.
But truthfully if you want to keep it original, it may come to that.
Sent from: My extremely complicated, hand held electronic device.
On Aug 19, 2019, at 12:21 PM, David Hoelzer via vcf-midatlantic <vcf-midatlantic@lists.vcfed.org> wrote:
I've been slowly working my way through rebuilding the CRT board for a 9" 2001-32 PET. As I've been working, I've been discovering that the
components on the board don't all match the specs in the documentation, but that's ok... Eventually I'll get together all of the pieces I'm missing and reassemble everything.. I'm working right now to figure out why the schematics call for a mylar capacitor but my board had a differently rated electrolytic.
Anyway... I'm seriously thinking about taking a 9" LCD panel with a composite input and wiring up a composite converter circuit to the internal video connector on the board. I would dismount the CRT tube
and put the LCD in in its place. Of course, I'll preserve the removed parts for posterity... but does this offend your sense of vintage stuff? Personally, it seems practical to me since I'd like to do some things with the PET... and the CRT is a potential major source of problems in addition to an energy hog/heat source.
THoughts?
-- ---- David Hoelzer Chief of Operations Enclave Forensics, Inc.
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David Hoelzer Chief of Operations Enclave Forensics, Inc.